The Fortress of Qaitbay: Where the Lighthouse of Alexandria Meets Mamluk History
The Fortress of Qaitbay is one of the most emblematic monuments of Alexandria in Egypt, a place where ancient and medieval history interweave indissolubly. Erected in 1477 by the Mamluk sultan al-Ashraf Sayf al-Din Qaitbay on the extreme tip of the island of Pharos, this imposing military structure rises on the foundations of what was the legendary Lighthouse of Alexandria, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
Situated at the western extremity of the eastern port of Alexandria, the fortress reaches out into the Mediterranean like a sentinel of stone, offering breathtaking panoramas of the sea and of the city. Its strategic position, which once guided navigators with the light of the Lighthouse, was subsequently exploited for the military defence of the port, making Qaitbay an irreplaceable bulwark against the threats coming from the sea.
The Lighthouse of Alexandria: The Lost Wonder
The Construction of the Pharos
Before the fortress, on this same promontory rose the Lighthouse of Alexandria, or Pharos, one of the most extraordinary realisations of ancient engineering. Built between 280 and 247 BC under the reigns of Ptolemy I Soter and Ptolemy II Philadelphus, the lighthouse was designed by the architect Sostratus of Cnidus and reached a height estimated between 100 and 140 metres, making it one of the tallest structures of the ancient world after the pyramids of Giza.
The structure was composed of three distinct sections: a massive square base, an octagonal central body and a superior cylindrical tower crowned by a statue, probably of the god Poseidon or of Zeus Soter. Inside the superior tower burned a perennial fire, whose light was amplified by a system of mirrors in polished bronze and could be visible at over 50 kilometres of distance, guiding the ships towards the busiest port of the Mediterranean.
The Destruction
The Lighthouse resisted for over a thousand years, but a series of devastating earthquakes caused its progressive destruction. The seism of 956 AD gravely damaged the superior part, that of 1303 reduced it to a stump, and the earthquake of 1323 completed the destruction. When the sultan Qaitbay visited Alexandria in 1477, of the Lighthouse remained only the foundations and heaps of granite blocks scattered on the coast.
The Underwater Discoveries
Starting from the nineties of the 20th century, the campaigns of underwater archaeology conducted by the team of Franck Goddio and Jean-Yves Empereur have brought back to light hundreds of granite blocks, columns and statues coming from the Lighthouse and from other ancient buildings, today submerged in the eastern port. Among the most spectacular findings figure enormous blocks of red granite from Aswan and fragments of colossal statues that testify to the magnificence of the lost monument.
The Mamluk Fortress
The Construction
The sultan Qaitbay, aware of the strategic importance of the site, ordered the construction of a defensive fortress using in part the granite blocks of the collapsed Lighthouse. The works lasted about two years, from 1477 to 1479, and the result was one of the most imposing coastal fortresses of the eastern Mediterranean.
Qaitbay was one of the most important Mamluk sultans of Egypt, known for his programme of fortification of the Mediterranean and Red Sea coasts against the growing Ottoman threat. The fortress of Alexandria was the jewel of this defensive system, designed to resist naval sieges and protect one of the most strategic ports of the Mediterranean.
The Military Architecture
The fortress develops on an irregular plan that follows the conformation of the tip of Pharos. The powerful walls, up to five metres thick, are built in blocks of limestone and granite, many of which recovered from the ruins of the Lighthouse. The crenellations that crown the walls testify to the Mamluk military architecture, functional and elegant at the same time.
The access to the fortress takes place through a bridge that crosses a moat, once connected to the sea. The entrance portal, surmounted by a pointed arch typical of Islamic architecture, leads to a corridor with openings for the throwing of projectiles and boiling oil, a defensive system typical of medieval fortresses.
The Central Keep
The heart of the fortress is constituted by the keep, a powerful defensive tower on multiple levels that dominates the entire complex. The tower presents a square plan with cylindrical angular towers and rises for about 17 metres above the level of the internal courtyard. Inside the keep are found halls with vaulted ceilings, narrow corridors for the defence and posts for cannons and archers.
From the summit of the keep one enjoys an extraordinary panoramic view: the Mediterranean extends as far as the eye can see to the north and to the west, while to the east and to the south opens the panorama of the city of Alexandria with its minarets, the domes and the modern buildings that mix with the historical architecture.
The Mosque
Inside the courtyard of the fortress is found a small mosque destined for the garrison. This building of worship, simple but elegant, presents a minaret in miniature and a mihrab richly decorated with geometric motifs typical of Mamluk art. The mosque is oriented towards Mecca and served the soldiers and the sailors stationed in the fortress.
The Maritime Museum
Inside the fortress a maritime museum has been set up that exhibits finds linked to the naval history of Alexandria. The collection includes models of ancient ships, navigation instruments, historical maps and finds recovered from the marine seabed. Of particular interest are the pieces coming from the campaigns of underwater archaeology, which offer a fascinating glance at the maritime life of ancient Alexandria.
The museum also presents a section dedicated to the history of the Lighthouse, with digital reconstructions and models that permit imagining the original aspect of the lost wonder. This section is particularly evocative and helps the visitors to understand the grandiosity of the monument that once rose exactly where they now find themselves.
The Fortress Through the Centuries
From the Ottoman Era to the Modern Period
After the Ottoman conquest of Egypt in 1517, the fortress continued to carry out its defensive function. The Ottoman sultan Qansuh al-Ghuri tried in vain to defend Alexandria from the Ottoman fleet, and the fortress suffered significant damage during the siege. In the subsequent centuries it was repeatedly restored and modified to adapt it to the evolution of military techniques.
During the Egyptian campaign of Napoleon Bonaparte in 1798, the fortress was bombarded by the French fleet and suffered grave damage. Subsequently, Muhammad Ali Pasha ordered its restoration and updating with the installation of modern artillery. During the Second World War, the fortress was again used as a military post.
The Modern Restorations
Starting from the eighties of the 20th century, the fortress has been the object of important restoration interventions that have restored its original Mamluk aspect. The walls have been consolidated, the moat has been cleaned and the internal spaces have been rendered accessible to the visitors. The restoration project has won several international prizes for the conservation of the architectural heritage.
Tips for the Visit
How to Arrive
The fortress is found at the extremity of the seafront of the Corniche, in the zone of Ras el-Tin. It is reachable by taxi from the centre of Alexandria or on foot along the pleasant promenade of the eastern port. The tram of Alexandria passes in the vicinity, with the Ras el-Tin stop at about ten minutes on foot.
Hours and Tickets
The fortress is open every day from 09:00 to 17:00. The entrance ticket includes the access to all the spaces of the fortress, including the maritime museum. It is advisable to verify any variations of hours during the national holidays and the month of Ramadan.
When to Visit
The late afternoon is the ideal moment for the visit: the light of the sunset transforms the fortress into an extraordinary chromatic spectacle, and the temperature is milder compared to the central hours of the day. The view of the sun that sets over the Mediterranean from the summit of the keep is an unforgettable experience.
Practical Suggestions
Wear comfortable shoes to explore the steep stairs and the corridors of the fortress. Bring a camera for the breathtaking panoramas. The sea wind can be strong, especially in winter, so foresee a light jacket. After the visit, stroll along the fishermen's port at the foot of the fortress to admire the colourful boats and taste the fresh fish in the restaurants on the sea.
Visiting the Fortress of Qaitbay is an experience that transcends the simple touristic visit: it is a pilgrimage towards the place where one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World rose, a site where every stone tells two stories, that of the glorious Lighthouse and that of the powerful Mamluk fortress that gathered its legacy.
